With the pack well squared in the left hand face down, bring the right hand over it, thumb at the rear, fingers on the outer end. Make a motion of squaring the ends and at the same time press the fingers back a little making the ends of the deck slightly wedge shaped.
	With the ball of the thumb lift the rear ends of the two top cards and slip the tip of the left little finger under them.
With the right thumb tip on the back of the two cards and the tip of the right forefinger on the face, turn the two cards as one and lay them face up on top of the pack, the ends protruding over the inner end of the deck for about half an inch Exhibit the card in this position, name it, and seize the cards again at the lower outer corner as before and turn them face down on the back of the pack.

Hit Lift - Holding the cards in mechanics/dealer's grip, bevel them to the right slightly. Keep a fairly wide space between the middle and ring fingers, and reach in that space with the right hand index finger. And just lift up two cards. You'll develop the feel after about 15-20 minutes of practicing this lift. It also looks more natural than the basic lift, and the motion can be easily copied when displaying a single card, too.

Two card push-off - This will be slightly difficult to fully describe how to do, but, hold the deck in mechanics grip. Then, make your index, middle, and ring fingers flush with the top card, NOT OVER it. Move your pinkie to the lower right corner, flush with the stop, but now place some downward pressure. Your thumb should come over the upper left corner of the card right at the border (if the card has a border, if not, right where the index pip would start). That thumb should now just push to the right. VERY IMPORTANT: There should be no conscious effort to push the second card along. It will just happen if the grip is proper.

Double lift from packet of 4 - The way to do this lift will take some practice before it looks like a straight plain old lift. But, you can use the hit lift, but it will FEEL differently from what you're probably going to be used to. The method I use from a packet of 4 is to push off three cards, and catch the third card with my middle finger, then turnover the remaining two cards.

• Hold the deck in you left hand palm with your pinkie against the edge. By lifting off X number of cards off the back edge of the deck with the right thumb you can force the cards to stay separated with your pinkie. When you need to lift of those cards or remember the place you can do it without any problems. This move is critical when doing the double-lift and other multiple card manoeuvres.

• Hold the pack face up in the left hand between the first joint of the thumb on one side and the second joints of the four fingers on the other. Call attention to the bottom card. Turn the pack face downwards and with the tip of the left finger draw the bottom card, back towards the body about 3/4 of an inch. Now with the tip of the right hand second finger draw out the next card, and put it face downwards on the table.
• The glide is simply pulling back a bottom card so that the second to the bottom card is revealed a little (this is done face-down though, so no-one can see the faces) It is only revealed for touch. The second to bottom card is the slipped out as if it was the bottom card. (Usually it looks 'the bottom card is shown. then the deck is facedown (no attention drawn to this), then the bottom card is slipped out  (Of course, really the 2nd the bottom is slipped out.)'

Break -- A slight opening secretly held in a deck of cards.

Breather Crimp -- The Breather crimp is a special type of "pyramid" crimp put into a card. It's good because it's not really detectable like the standard crimp is--but it's harder to put into the card and requires a little privacy. The breather crimp is an undetectable crimp that can be put on a card at a moments notice, and is an extremely powerful weapon in the card conjurors arsenal.

Book Pass Force -- The book-pass force is where you do an overhand shuffle (take a group of cards then throw them on the other pile, you do this repeatedly) except you hold the top card and keep it on top. This will leave the selected card on top.

Bridge-Sized Deck -- A deck of cards slightly smaller than a poker deck, measuring 2-1/4’ wide. Bridge-size cards are frequently used and give the magician an advantage in certain tricks because of their smaller width.

Card Discovery -- The climax or end of many card tricks during which the spectator’s card is revealed or produced in a “magical” manner.

Card Location -- Any method that allows the magician to find or locate a selected card after it has been returned to the pack.

Conjurer -- A magician

Control -- Any method that allows the performer to move a particular card or cards to a specific location in the pack.

Crimp -- This involves putting a bend or crease in a playing card in such a way that you are able to locate it in the deck by feel alone. The crimp can be put anywhere on the card, but the corners or long sides are generally used. You can crimp the card simply by bending the corner slightly upwards when showing it. You can also crimp the side of a card by squeezing it gently at the side between the thumb and forefinger. Basically, any (subtle) identifying bend or crease in a playing card qualifies as a crimp.

Cut Deck -- Magician pulls a deck of cards out of a box showing that the deck is cut in half! (from upper right corner to lower left corner). Magician claims that he/she performed at a restaurant a while ago, and when he was showing a trick to the cook that required him to cut the deck, he took it literally and chopped the deck in half. Now, the spectator fans the left half and asks the spectator to point to a card. That card is removed and given to the spectator. The spectator then fans the right half and asks another spectator to point to a card. That card is removed and given to the other spectator. The spectators are then asked to place their cards face down on the table. The magician takes their cards and puts them together, showing an exact match on the back of the cards. They are flipped over and revealed to be the 2 matching sections of one card!!!!!!

Do As I Do -- When you have the spectator do the same things as you do.

Double Sided Cards -- Simply a double sided card which you can buy or make for many good effects.

Double Undercut -- Have about half the deck in both hands, have the spectator replace the chosen card on top of the left hand stock. Place the right hand stock on top, or dribble on top such as to cover the pinkie break you will catch above the spectator's card. Square up the cards, and transfer the break to your right thumb. Remove about half of the cards below the break, with your left hand, (kind of a pulling motion, keep right hand still as possible) and cut them to the top (still retaining break, will have to shove the stock underneath your right palm). Cut to the break with your left hand, drop the right hand stock on to the table. Drop the left hand stock on top of the cards on the table. Card has been controlled to the top.

Effect -- A sleight or trick

Elmsley Count/Elmsley Pass --

The Elmsley Count/Elmsley Pass

This is a sleight-of-hand manoeuvre that can be done ambidextrously. It is not as hard as a 'parallel pull', but it takes much more grace and skill than a Hindu Shuffle, if that puts this sleights difficulty into perspective.

Try doing this sleight by using the fingers of the same hand you're holding the card with. This puts more ambiguity on your actions, and the audience is less likely to think that you're doing anything because a) the audience thinks "what can you possibly do with one hand?" (a lot, actually!) and b) you can be animated and distract people with the other hand. But that's extremely hard to do. But it's possible.

How to do the classic Elmsley sleight:

Take four cards from a deck and put them in your left hand. The cards will be all facing down, except for the card second to the bottom (the one right before the bottom card), which is face up. However, you want to give the illusion that all the cards are face down.

	Hold the stack of four cards in a way that four of your fingers are on the bottom card, while your thumb is sitting on top of the stack.
Using your right hand, bring in your index and middle fingers below and your thumb above the top card (in your left hand), and slide it over into your right hand. Place your right hand's fingers on the top right corner of the card when taking it.
Next. you want to take the second card and get it to the other hand. You're going to want to put it above the first card. The trick is to use your thumb to push the face down and face up cards (which are the next two on the pile) into your right hand. Simultaneously, the first card moved gets pushed underneath the face down card still in your left hand. Again, the first card moved is going BACK under the last card in your left hand.
	Now, you have two face down cards in your left hand and one face up and one face down in your right hand. Put the top card in your left hand on top of the two in your right. Now, put the last remaining card in your left hand and the pile in the right hand. You have the face up card on the bottom, and the original top card is still on top.

Remember, the key to perfection is practice. At first it's very hard to keep the two cards together, but eventually you'll figure out your own personal way to grip the cards and push them over. This sleight, as you will see, is the basis for several advanced card tricks.

This can be done with more than just four cards, however, the more cards in your hands, the harder it becomes. If you keep the face up card third from the bottom, the trick remains the same, no matter how many cards you have. The only thing that is different is that you have to count more legitimate cards after the sleight has been done. If you choose to rearrange where you put the face up card, you must remember, that the further down in the deck it is, the more cards you have to push off into your right hand when counting. The greater number of cards that you are pushing might make is harder to perform is flawlessly, without losing control.

-From *tarik soliman*

 

Alternate Description

This is an extremely brief description. There are many starting positions for this sleight; Dia Vernon used it as a display from the fingertips. I use it more as a count so I prefer the mechanics grip because it looks the more natural. Hold the cards in mechanics grip. With the right hand grasp the cards in the centre of the right hand edge. Pull off the first card with the left hand as you separate your hands. While your hands are separating the right hand pushes off two cards the left. As you bring your hands together to take the second card, take the double and at the same time you take the double steal back the original first card in your left hand to the bottom of the cards in your right hand. So as you count two, you actually have two cards in each hand. Then pull off the third card then the forth. This sleight should look exactly the same if you perform the sleight of if you count the cards straight in the same manner. It's one that does take a little practice, but it w! ill be one of the most valuable sleights in your arsenal. So learn it well

-From *martyk@intnet.net*

Face -- The face of a card shows its value and suit.

Face Cards, Picture cards, or Court Cards -- All of the jacks, queens, and kings.

False Cut

False Cut

Hold the deck by the sides near the ends between the thumb and second finger of each hand. Now pull out about one third of the cards from the bottom and put them on the top but still hold them with the thumb and second finger. With the right third finger lift about half the lower packet, draw the hands quickly apart releasing the top packet which falls on the table resuming its original position. On it drop the packet from the left hand, and on that the right hand packet.

               

False Shuffle

False Shuffle

A false shuffle at the right time can change a so-so card trick to a miracle. The type of shuffle depends on how much of the deck you're trying to "protect." For example, if somebody chooses a card and you secretly get it to the top of the deck, you probably want to protect the top card's position when you shuffle. For this, you can use an ordinary riffle shuffle. Just remember which hand is holding the cards from the upper half of the deck, and be careful not to release the last of these until all the cards in your other hand have fallen. Obviously you can use the same method to protect a card at the bottom.
 

When you need to protect a larger number of cards at the top, the overhand shuffle is easier to use. Here's one method: Hold the deck in the usual overhand position (right fingers at the outer end, right thumb at the inner end, cards facing to the right). With your left thumb, pull off a bunch of cards that includes those you want to protect. Lift your right hand and bring it down to the left of the cards in your left hand. Pull off another bunch with your left thumb, and simultaneously grab the first bunch of cards between your right ring (third) finger at the outer end and the base of your right thumb at the inner end. Keep this grip as you lift your right hand for the next pass. You are now holding two bunches in your right hand--one between your second finger and your thumb, the other between your third finger and your thumb.

 

 

Shuffle off the cards in the bunch between your second finger and your thumb. Drop the remaining cards onto those in your left hand. That's it. Do it a couple of times. It's easy.

 

 

If you use a stacked deck, you need a shuffle that protects the order of the stack. But with many stacks, it doesn't hurt to cut the deck. For example, if thirteen cards are stacked A,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,J,Q,K, you can cut them as many times as you like and each card will still be 1 higher than the one to its left, with the understanding that A is 1 higher than K.

Here's a shuffle that merely cuts the deck: Hold the cards in your left hand. With your left thumb, push a batch of cards from the top into your right hand. *With your left fingers (not your thumb), push some cards from the bottom of the left cards to the top of the right cards. With your left thumb, push some cards from the top of the left cards to the bottom of the right cards. Repeat from *, moving cards from left top to right bottom and left bottom to right top until the whole deck is in your right hand. If you mention what you're doing (it's probably better not to), don't call it a "shuffle." Call it "mixing" the cards.

Here's another shuffle that does the same thing: It starts off like one of those described above. Hold the deck in the overhand position. With your left thumb, pull off a bunch of cards. Lift your right hand and bring it down to the left of the cards in your left hand. Pull off another bunch with your left thumb, and simultaneously grab the first bunch of cards between your right ring (third) finger at the outer end and the base of your right thumb at the inner end, and lift your right hand for the next pass. Your right hand is now holding one bunch of cards between your second finger and your thumb, and another between your third finger and your thumb. Drop the entire right bunch from your right hand onto the left side of the cards in your left hand. Lift your right hand and bring it down to the right of the cards in your left hand.

With your left thumb, pull off some of the cards in your right hand onto the right side of the cards in your left hand. Finally, lift your right hand and drop its remaining cards to the left of the cards in your left hand.

The last paragraph above describes the action that "cuts" the cards. If instead, you drop all the remaining cards onto the right side of the cards in your left hand, the deck will be in exactly its original order. This shuffle looks a bit skimpy. To pad it out, you can pull a few cards off the right bunch onto the right side of the cards in your left hand. Then bring your right hand over to the left and down, put your left thumb on it, and pretend to pull off some cards. Instead, just let your thumb slide over the cards. Lift the bunch over to the right and pull off a few more onto the right side. Repeat this until you've put all the cards on the right side.

Here's one more overhand shuffle that protects the entire order: With your left thumb, pull off about half the deck and then pull off 6 cards one at a time. Drop the rest of the cards to the left of those in your left hand, but "in jog" them about an inch. That is, move your right hand about an inch toward you before dropping the cards so that there's a clear-cut "step" between the two halves. Pick up all the cards to the right of the step, pull off 6 cards one at a time, and drop the rest of the cards to the left of those in your left hand.
 

Faro Shuffle

Faro Shuffle

• The faro, also known as the weave shuffle is a technique that perfectly interlaces the cards. It is not a false shuffle, but properly speaking a controlled shuffle. An out faro is one which retains the top and bottom cards after the shuffle..an in faro keeps changing the top and bottom cards. If 8 perfect out faros are performed, the deck will return to the original order it was in before the shuffles were performed. The shuffle can be made in the hands, or on the table which gives it the appearance of a tabled riffle shuffle. The in the hands method is, by far, the easier of the two and I will describe the method that I use.
• Square the sides and ends of the pack as evenly as possible with both hands. The left thumb and second finger press on the sides of the deck to square while the right thumb and second finger press on the ends of the pack to square them. The forefingers of each hand are curled on top and bottom of the deck respectively.
• The pack is turned on its side so that the left side now faces the performer. The right hand releases its grip while the left fingers assume the following position: At the front end of deck the tip of the left forefinger is placed. The ball of left thumb is slightly above centre of deck on the left side. The left second, third and fourth fingers are on the right side of deck with the right side of deck pressing against the first creases of the left second and third fingers while the left fourth finger has its full tip pressing against the side.
• The right hand comes over to cut or break the pack. The left fourth finger moves out of the way so that the side of right second finger comes in contact against the left third finger. The right forefinger is curled on top. While the right second, third and fourth fingers press on the under side of the pack, the right thumb comes over, close to the left thumb and slightly below centre, to break the pack exactly at 26.
• Having split the deck, place the two halves against each other at the corners only. Both hands move slightly inwards towards the body causing the packets to assume a slightly angular position.
• The grip of both hands must be firm to prevent any slipping of the cards in either packet. Also, the right forefinger presses down rather firmly on top of its packet causing a slight bow. The corner of the right hand packet is pressed firmly upwards against the corner of the left hand packet. At the same time, the right hand is moved sharply, but slightly, inwards for about a quarter of an inch. This upward and inward action causes the cards to start weaving.
• The right hand, still maintaining its upward pressure, moves its packet forward, easily, to its original position. This forward movement of the right hand packet causes the weave to complete itself. With practise, this upward and inward action of the packets will become very slight, almost unnoticeable.
• Push the packets together and square.

-From Bob Hooker
 

Finger Break

Finger Break

• Hold the deck in you left hand palm with your pinkie against the edge. By lifting off X number of cards off the back edge of the deck with the right thumb you can force the cards to stay separated with your pinkie. When you need to lift of those cards or remember the place you can do it without any problems. This move is critical when doing the double-lift and other multiple card manoeuvres.

Flash -- Allowing the spectator to briefly see the face of any card.

Flourish -- A display of skill with cards. Usually not a trick but an important part of a trick like one handed cut, fan, and ribbon spread.

First, take a look at the top card, A good time to do this is when you shuffle the cards at the start of the trick. If the spectator insists on shuffling it for you, let them and then take it back and shuffle it again quickly, glimpsing at the top card while you're at it.

Then, hold the cards with your thumb on top and the rest of your fingers at the bottom. Now with your other thumb touching the edges of the cards close to the volunteer, explain that you are going to rifle through the cards and the spectator is to tell you to stop at any point in the deck that they feel like.

Now, slowly rifle through the cards till they tell you to stop.

When they stop you, lift up the portion of the deck that is above the stopping point. This may seem like an innocent move but it's not. Why? because while you are doing this you have slipped off the top card (which you have looked at already) with the thumb that was on the deck so that it is now on the bottom portion of the deck (make sure you don't look at the bottom part of the deck as you are doing this, it will make your participant watch it TOO closely).

Show the bottom card of the top portion (I know it's confusing but bear with me) to them and explain how this is NOT your card since you can see it right there and it would make a lousy card trick if you use it. Instead, offer them the bottom part of the deck and let them take the top card of that (which is the card that you memorized at the start of the trick! You did memorize it, didn't you?)

Have them put the card back where ever they want to. Now you can do ANYTHING you want to. Since you know their card, you can just pull it out whenever you want to. I personally like to force the card on them and then let THEM shuffle it as much as they want. After that I just glance through the cards and pull out theirs! This is especially effective when you're with someone who knows about the concept of key cards. You can also use this with many of the other tricks on this site. Just have FUN!!!

 

More Forces

 

"Simon Says" (Force) C/O Bob Longe: The top card of the deck is the force card. Hold the deck in the dealing position in your left hand. Fold your left first finger under the deck; this will facilitate the following move. Rifle down the side of the deck with your left thumb, saying to a victim, "Tell me when to stop." Stop immediately at the exact point that the victim indicates. Your left thumb is now bending all the cards below the break.

 

Hold your right hand palm up next to your right hand. Tilt your left hand clockwise, until the cards above your left thumb fall face up into your right hand. The right edge of the pile in your right hand should rest along the first joint of your fingers. The second and third fingers of your left hand flip the pile over so that it falls face down into your right hand. Immediately extend your right hand towards the victim and say "Please look at your card." They look at the original.

 

Hey this isn't admittedly the best force in this book, but with some remedies and a few flips you can have a near flawless force.

Double Cut Force: The card to be forced is on top of the deck. You have a spectator cut a small packet of cards from the top of the deck and turn them face up onto the deck. So at this point you have a small packet of face up cards on top of the deck. Once you begin spreading the cards... you must go to the first FACE-DOWN card and that will be the original top card (the first face-up card will NOT be the original top card) To make this seem effective... it is often good to mention to the spectator that you would like for him/her to look at the "card you freely cut to". And you have just performed a double cut force.

Cut force: It's decent. Memorize the bottom card. Think of the deck as a top half and bottom half. Have someone cut the deck and put the top half (we'll call it 1" to the right. the bottom of course will be called 2. Have the spectator flip the top card on 1 over, face-up on top of the rest of the cards. Have him/her put 2 on of 1. Have him/her fan through the deck and find the card they flipped over. Tell them that their card is the one to the right, which is the original bottom card.

Glide force: This is a very useful way to force a card, and it is easy. First, memorize the bottom card. That is the card you are going to force. Ask the spectator to pick a number between one and ten. For example we'll say that they picked eight. glide the bottom card (the one that will be forced) and start dealing out cards from above it. Once you've dealt out one less amount of cards then the selected number, then deal out the real bottom card. So, if the person picked eight, glide the bottom card, deal out seven cards, and then deal out the real bottom one as the eighth. This is the perfect way to force a card and is a very useful weapon.

 

Spread Cull Force - Let's say you have a card you wish to force somewhere... one way or another get it to the bottom (or make the bottom card your force card). Undercut about 10 cards from the bottom (the card to force is now the tenth card from the top, theoretically, this can be any number, but I keep it to under 10). Spread the top of the deck as you ask the spectator to select a card. While doing so, cull the force card underneath the spread (Assume the force card is the fifth card, spread out five cards, using your left hand's fingers, hold the fifth card in place and move the four cards above back towards the deck. The fifth card will go under that stock. Thumb off the sixth card a bit, but drag the right hand stock, including the force card underneath back to the right. You will feel a click as the force card falls free of the top of the deck. From this point on, all cards spread will be OVER the culled card). Ask the spectator to TOUCH a card. When spectator does so, ask the spectator if he/she is absolutely sure that is the card he/she wants. Also, ask if you've influenced the choice... emphasize the apparent freedom of the selection. When the spectator finally decides on a card, jog it outward towards the spectator so that it pokes out of the right hand stock. At this point, you have two ways to go. You can square up everything, and your force card is the bottom of the right hand stock, but to the spectator, is logically his/her card. Another thing you can do is to drop the right hand stock on top of the remaining left hand stock, but outjog it quite a bit. Now, you need to align your force card with the card the spectator touched. I usually do this by the action of squaring up the outjogged top portion. I slide the force card up while keeping a right hand index finger on the outer edge of the touched card to keep from pushing too far forward. I can then even pull out the two cards a bit more and show it to the audience from that vantage point.

 

As an addendum, you can shove the force card plus some cards beneath it through the pack and grab them with your right hand and drop them on top and rationalize it by saying you're "burying the card deeper." This happens while the touched card is in full view, thereby reinforcing the illusion even further, but the viewed card is now on top. This explanation has been quite wordy, but if you know how to spread cull, all of it should make sense.

 

The principles in the spread cull force can also be applied to a standard fan, except the bottom card is the one that is ridden underneath the spread and the fan is broken on the card the spectator touches.

 

Dribble Force - This is a force that is very close to impossible to screw up because it's just psychologically strong. Have the card you wish to force in the upper portion of the deck and hold a break either above or beneath it with the thumb. Dribble the cards into the other hand asking the spectator to say stop. The speed of the dribbling should be moderate. When the spectator calls stop, drop all the cards beneath the break. And offer either the bottom card of the right-hand stock or the top of the dribbled stock, depending on where you held your break. You've forced the card.

 

A few notes on that force. It seems very similar to the riffle force, but this one is more effective because you have the cushion of the dribbling cards so you can drop a lot at the end without looking too weird if the spectator calls stop early. And as for the spectator calling stop late? Slow down your dribble, and the spectator will practically have to FIGHT to not call stop. I once overlooked this force... don't make that mistake, try it yourself. You'll be surprised at how well it works.

 

20 count force: This is an automatic force which comes in handy sometimes. All you need to know is the 10th card and just tell the spectator to pick a number between 10 and 20 they do you deal that many cards out then tell them to add the two digits together then put that many cards on the top have them remember the top card of the little stack and do whatever you what to do with this self working force.

Force 1: Memorize the top card. Cut the top of the deck to the bottom, but hold a break between the card halves. You are basically going to fan the cards out, but making sure that the top card you memorize is the most accessible. Try to make the other cards hard to get by making the close and tight together. At the same time try to make it look like a normal fanned deck. Then when you ask your spectator to pick a card tell him/her...well, I usually tell them anyway "When you take a card, hold it against your chest so neither of us can see it. Now take a card (and when they begin to reach) Quickly! " The objective is to make them not think about what card they chose. If you tell them to take it quickly, it kinda puts a little pressure on them, so they'll take the easier-most accessible card they can find. And you happen to have one already set. Believe it or not, this work almost all the time. I've had 2 occasions when it hasn't, And I've done it plenty of times. If they don't pick the card that was set up, Just do a normal 'pick any card' trick. But if they do pick the card (And A LOT of people will...you will be very surprised) then you can do the impossible!

NOTE: Do not do this force to the same person twice!! It will work the first time, but the second time it won't....believe me!

Force 2: First you need to know the bottom card. Make sure that you are following along with a deck of cards, otherwise you most likely won't get it! Now, hold the deck in dealing position. place your thumb on the bottom card and your pointing finger and middle finger on top. slide the bottom card slightly toward your chest with your thumb. Next, with your pointing finger pull back a tiny packet of cards. Even one card would be fine. Next with your middle finger pull back a second packet. then, back to your pointing finger, pull of a third packet. Keep doing this....Try to do it rapidly. Then have your spectator tell you when to stop pulling back the packets. When he say stop do this: Keep the deck held in your left hand. pull up all the packets that you were pulling towards you up, facing the spectator. When you pull the packets up, also slip the bottom card IN FRONT of all those cards. Now in your right hand you should be holding all the packets that you were pulling towards your (or most of them) facing the spectator. You can only see the backs). The original bottom card should be in front of all the packets. The outmost card facing the spectator should be the original bottom card, which is the card that he sees. Then have him shuffle the deck and do whatever. This one is really good. To some people, you can simply say" Tell me when to stop" and then when s (he) say stop you call the card. Although I would recommend putting something else to it. I only do that when I am out of tricks. But don't do it too many times or you will be revealed.

Force 3: This force is a fairly good one. Memorize the top card. Have the spectator cut the deck and put it upside-down (face-up) on top of the other half. Next, have the spectator cut anywhere below the first cut, and flip it upside down and put it on top. Then fan through the deck and find the first face-down card. Say something like" It's easy to tell where you cut to, because all the other cards are face up). Show him/her the first face down card and tell them to remember it. it's the chosen card, and all that kind of mumbo-jumbo. The first face down card is the original top card:)

Justin Johnson

Free Choice -- When a spectator really has a free choice, no force.

Gimmick -- A secret device used in the execution of a magic trick.

Glide

• Hold the pack face up in the left hand between the first joint of the thumb on one side and the second joints of the four fingers on the other. Call attention to the bottom card. Turn the pack face downwards and with the tip of the left finger draw the bottom card, back towards the body about 3/4 of an inch. Now with the tip of the right hand second finger draw out the next card, and put it face downwards on the table.
• The glide is simply pulling back a bottom card so that the second to the bottom card is revealed a little (this is done face-down though, so no-one can see the faces) It is only revealed for touch. The second to bottom card is the slipped out as if it was the bottom card. (Usually it looks 'the bottom card is shown. then the deck is facedown (no attention drawn to this), then the bottom card is slipped out.(Of course, really the 2nd the bottom is slipped out.)'

Glimpse -- Secretly noting a card while holding or shuffling the pack.

Greek Shift -- Here we go: Control the card you want to force to the top of the deck. Undercut about a quarter of the pack and throw it on top holding a break above the force card. Turn over the top card and give it to the spectator instructing him to partially insert it face up somewhere in the middle of the deck. Make sure it goes below the break. Take the deck in the Biddle Grip in your right hand transferring the break to your right thumb. Push the cards below the face-up card backwards with your left index finger while taking the deck in your right hand. Push the section above the break a bit forward with your right hand and grab the face up card and the section above the break at the short end of the deck between your right thumb and index finger and lift it up to show the face-up card at the bottom of this section. Now you have apparently cut the deck at the face-up card, when you've actually cut it at the break.

 

Haunted Deck -- Spectator freely selects a card, and that card is placed back onto the deck. The deck is cut and the spectator is told that the deck will remove the card by itself and then watches, as the deck removes the card!!!! The deck can then be given to the spectator to reveal no gimmick!!!!!

 

 Hindu Shuffle

The Hindu Shuffle & Force

The card to be forced is at the bottom of the deck. Hold the deck face down in the Hindu shuffle position in the left hand, i.e., hold the deck with the third phalanx of the fingers with the thumb on one long edge and the other four fingers on the other long edge. Start the Hindu shuffle by seizing about 2/3 of the deck from the bottom with the thumb and the third finger of the right hand. Then repeatedly bring the pile in the right hand onto the pile in the left leaving some cards from the top onto the pile on the left each time. While doing this, tell the spectator to tell you when to stop. When he does, show him the bottom card of the pile in the right which will be the original bottom card.

Note: The Hindu shuffle must be done in a rapid and smooth fashion in order for the force to work.

Alternate Description: This shuffle is done in the following way. Hold the deck in your left hand with your thumb on longer side of the deck and four fingers on the other side. pull out the bottom of the deck with your right hand. let the top fall into your left hand. Have the palm of your right hand over the deck when you do this (it's easier to do the sleights with this shuffle when your right hand is positioned that way) Put your palm over the deck when you pull the bottom out. next repeat step one. place the rest of the deck( which is in your right hand) back in your left and repeat. This is the Hindu shuffle.

Retaining the top card with the Hindu shuffle: Being in the Hindu shuffle. After you have drawn off the first packet; with the thumb and middle finger of your right hand (your palm should be over the deck) pick up a small portion of the cards in your left hand. Keep doing the shuffle without hesitation. at the end of the shuffle, drop the cards down that you picked up with your thumb and middle finger. those cards should now be on top. If you picked up cards from the first packet drawn, then the top card should now be the same card.

Controlling a card with the Hindu shuffle: Begin the Hindu shuffle. Draw off about 3 packets or so. Then have your spectator place his/her card on top of those. Then continue the shuffle, except, with your thumb and middle finger, pick up a packet from the cards in your left hand (The top card of this packet should be their card). when you are done with the shuffle naturally drop that packet on top. It should appear that that is that last packet. Pretty deceptive move:)

Retaining the bottom card with the Hindu shuffle: at the beginning of the shuffle hold the bottom card with your index finger. When you pull of the first packet, slip the bottom card on it. simple:)

 

Hindu control - Have the card placed on top of some card stock, catch a break underneath it with the pinkie. Drop the remaining card stock on top. Hindu shuffle from the break (where spectator's card is the bottom card of the shuffled stock) Shuffle until the spectator's card is on top.

Justin Johnson
 

Indicator Card -- A playing card used to identify the location, value, or suit of a different card, usually selected by the audience.

Invisible Deck

Invisible Deck

This deck is a trick deck wherein the backs of the cards used have a thick, non-slick surface. The cards are placed back to back in certain pairs. There a few rules in determining these pairs:

• 1) Each pair adds up to 13 (9 and 4; 6 and 7; queen and ace; king and king; etc.)
• 2) All the odds are on one side, all the evens on the other
• 3) Hearts and spades are on one side, diamonds and clovers are on the other (note: this could vary depending on the company that made the deck)

A joker is commonly used to cover up one end of the deck, seeing how both sides have face up cards. By putting the joker face down on one side, you can make the deck appear as if it were legit. Manoeuvre the joker by palming it and placing it when necessary.

The most common trick used with the Invisible Deck:

An "invisible" deck is seemingly placed in front of the participant. Encourage them to shuffle through the pretend cards and pick one out. Ask them to tell you what card it is. They then have to make up a card. Lets say the card the choose is the 9 of Diamonds. Then the performer announces that the card will be mystically transmitted to a real, tangible deck. Using the trick deck, put the joker on the 'odd' card side (since 9 is odd), and start fanning the deck in search of a card. By applying a bit of pressure on the cards as you fan them, the backs stick together, and the audience cannot tell that each card has it's "pair" stuck to the back of it. When you get to the "pair" of the card your looking for (in this case, the 4 of Clubs) ease up on your finger tension and allow the "pair" to slip out (it will be face down amongst face up cards) and have the participant flip it over. It is their "invisible" card that they made up.

From tarik soliman

Jog --After the spectator has chosen a card. Overhand shuffle some of the deck, still retaining some stock in the other hand. Have the spectator replace the card on top of the shuffled stock. Run off one card on top of the spectator's card, but jog it towards you about half an inch (such that the card on top of the spectator's is not completely on top of the deck, but is hanging over the edge slightly). Shuffle off. In an apparently, squaring up action, catch a break beneath the jogged card and shuffle until that break. Then throw the rest of the stock on top. The card has been controlled to the top. If you catch a break above, you can control to where it is second from the top.

Key Card -- A Card, generally gimmicked, which is used to locate a particular card or cards in the deck.

Legerdemain -- A French term for magic of the hands or sleight of hand.

Marked Deck -- A deck a cards with markings on the back to identify the front. You can name any marked card by looking at the back of it.

Mechanic's Grip -- The mechanics grip is one of the most often used for false dealing. It is sort of a compromise between the erdnase grip and the full grip. The forefinger curls around the outer right corner of the deck while the other three fingers curl around the side of the deck.

One Way Deck -- Here is a deck that you don't have to buy, you arrange the back of the deck pictures all the same way and when the spectator picks his card just switch the deck around. Then it is the only one that is backwards. No more fake shuffles!

Overhand Shuffle -- A shuffle where you hold the cards in your right hand and you pull them off a few at a time into your left hand.

Palming a Card

Palming a Card

	Hold your right hand palm upwards and on it lay a face up card so that the top index corner touches the top joint of the little finger and the lower index corner presses against the fleshy part at the base of the thumb.
Bend the fingers naturally keeping the thumb near the side of the hand and the fingers closely together.

Pass -- A sleight.

Patter -- The talk a magician uses to accompany a trick.

Reversed Card -- Any card that is face up in a face-down pack (or faced down in a face-up pack).

Riffle Shuffle

Riffle Shuffle

• The deck is divided into two packets, the ends put together, the cards being bent upwards and released in such a way that they become interlaced. To retain a card or a small packet of cards on the top, you have simply to release it or them from the right hand portion last of all. If the bottom cards are to be retained then they are let fall from the left hand in the first movement of the shuffle

Sandwiched Card -- Any card that is placed, or located, between two other pre- designated cards.

Self-Working Tricks -- Tricks that don't require sleight of hand.

Shuffle -- The process of mixing a deck of cards

Slip Force -- Quick Force. Click on title for complete description.

Spot Cards -- Any card from ace through ten in any suit.

Springing Cards -- A flourish in which you bend the cards, let go, and catch them with the other hand

Stripper

Stripper Definition

This deck is cut in sort of a subtle 'triangular' shape. meaning the top is wider than the bottom. therefore, if a card is place in upside down, the wider end of the card now matches with the decks lower end, thus making it easy to locate or even slip the card right out of the middle of the deck. Pretty nice deck.

-From Justin Johnson
 

In a stripper deck the cards taper at the ends, that is one end of each card is slightly narrower than the other. It follows that if a card is turned end for end it can be instantly found because of the projection of its broad end amongst the narrow ends of the other cards.

-Encyclopaedia of Card Tricks
 

Basic Ways of Handling the Pack

Turning the deck imperceptibly for the return of the chosen card is very important. To begin with, have the narrow ends nearest your body so that when the chosen card is returned to the reversed deck the projecting sides will be at the inner end. To effect this reverse, spread the pack in a wide fan in the left hand from left to right. As soon as a card is withdrawn close the fan by placing your right hand on the left side of the fan and closing the pack towards the right, thus bringing the narrow end pointing to the left and the wide end to the right. Retain hold of the cards with the thumb and fingers of each hand at the ends.

If the spectator, has taken a card by its wide end and has not changed his hold, you offer the deck to him in your right hand, slightly spreading it with the thumb and fingers. Square the deck and the wide end of the chosen card is at the inner end. It may happen that the spectator will turn the card round himself in showing it to another spectator, in that case you offer the pack for its return with your left hand again slightly spreading it fan wise, this time with the left thumb and fingers. By holding the pack in the position named, the necessary turn is half made and can be imperceptibly completed by taking the cards in the right hand for the return of a card, or nullified by taking them with the left hand.

Another very good method is to square the deck and hold it by the ends in the right hand, fingers on the outer wide end, thumb on the inner narrow end, square the sides of the pack with the left thumb and fingers, the left forefinger curled up under the pack, and the right forefinger curled in on the top. Now it is an easy matter to riffle either end of the deck for the return of the card. If the spectator has not turned his card, remove your left hand from the pack and with it pull the right sleeve a little, at the same time turning the right palm upwards bringing the pack upright, right thumb on the narrow ends. Bring the left hand against the face of the deck and riffle with the thumb for the return of the selected card, simply riffle the wide ends with the tip of the right second fingers.

-Encyclopaedia of Card Tricks

 

Svengali

Svengali Definition

This is a really neat deck. Every other card in the deck is a little shorter than the rest. For example: the first card is shorter, the next card normal, the next card shorter, the next card normal, and so on throughout the deck, Usually, the shorter cards are all one (in my deck they are the jack of clubs) So if you riffle the cards facedown, you'll notice that the cards fall down by twos. two cards each fall) The shorter card will always fall on top. When you riffle facedown you will see the bottom cards before they become the bottom cards. The bottom cards are normal, therefore the deck appears to be a normal on. If you riffle the cards face up, then you can only see the top cards, which are the shorter ones. If you don't have one, this is a good deck to force a card, and even to 'magically' transform the deck into a deck of nothing but one type of card.

-From Justin Johnson
 

The Svengali Deck consists of 26 ordinary cards, all different, and 26 short cards all of the same suit and value. The latter may be narrower as well as shorter, but short duplicates only are generally used. The pack is set up by arranging the two sets alternately, thus every other card from the top is a card of the same suit and value. Burling Hull in his "Sealed Mysteries" claims its invention and that he copyrighted it in 1909. The Svengali deck soon leaped into wide popularity and into the hands of street peddlers. Many thousands of packs must have been sold, and are still selling, and yet its use must not be despised by magicians on that account. Like many other weapons in the magicians' armoury it can be used even amongst people who know the principle without their suspicions being aroused.

-Encyclopaedia of Card Tricks
 

Switch -- A sleight or move in which one object is secretly substituted for another.

Vegas Shuffle -- The Vegas shuffle is the same as the Reno shuffle when you cut the deck into two piles and with your thumbs merge them together. It is the same except you only merge the two piles in the corners, and then you straighten them out..

Vanish -- The act of making an object suddenly become nonexistent.

First, take a look at the top card, A good time to do this is when you shuffle the cards at the start of the trick. If the spectator insists on shuffling it for you, let them and then take it back and shuffle it again quickly, glimpsing at the top card while you're at it.

Then, hold the cards with your thumb on top and the rest of your fingers at the bottom. Now with your other thumb touching the edges of the cards close to the volunteer, explain that you are going to rifle through the cards and the spectator is to tell you to stop at any point in the deck that they feel like.

Now, slowly rifle through the cards till they tell you to stop.

When they stop you, lift up the portion of the deck that is above the stopping point. This may seem like an innocent move but it's not. Why? because while you are doing this you have slipped off the top card (which you have looked at already) with the thumb that was on the deck so that it is now on the bottom portion of the deck (make sure you don't look at the bottom part of the deck as you are doing this, it will make your participant watch it TOO closely).

Show the bottom card of the top portion (I know it's confusing but bear with me) to them and explain how this is NOT your card since you can see it right there and it would make a lousy card trick if you use it. Instead, offer them the bottom part of the deck and let them take the top card of that (which is the card that you memorized at the start of the trick! You did memorize it, didn't you?)

Have them put the card back where ever they want to. Now you can do ANYTHING you want to. Since you know their card, you can just pull it out whenever you want to. I personally like to force the card on them and then let THEM shuffle it as much as they want. After that I just glance through the cards and pull out theirs! This is especially effective when you're with someone who knows about the concept of key cards. You can also use this with many of the other tricks on this site. Just have FUN!!!

The card to be forced is at the bottom of the deck. Hold the deck face down in the Hindu shuffle position in the left hand, i.e., hold the deck with the third phalanx of the fingers with the thumb on one long edge and the other four fingers on the other long edge. Start the Hindu shuffle by seizing about 2/3 of the deck from the bottom with the thumb and the third finger of the right hand. Then repeatedly bring the pile in the right hand onto the pile in the left leaving some cards from the top onto the pile on the left each time. While doing this, tell the spectator to tell you when to stop. When he does, show him the bottom card of the pile in the right which will be the original bottom card.

Note: The Hindu shuffle must be done in a rapid and smooth fashion in order for the force to work.

Alternate Description: This shuffle is done in the following way. Hold the deck in your left hand with your thumb on longer side of the deck and four fingers on the other side. pull out the bottom of the deck with your right hand. let the top fall into your left hand. Have the palm of your right hand over the deck when you do this (it's easier to do the sleights with this shuffle when your right hand is positioned that way) Put your palm over the deck when you pull the bottom out. next repeat step one. place the rest of the deck (which is in your right hand) back in your left and repeat. This is the Hindu shuffle.

Retaining the top card with the Hindu shuffle: Being in the Hindu shuffle. After you have drawn off the first packet; with the thumb and middle finger of your right hand (your palm should be over the deck) pick up a small portion of the cards in your left hand. Keep doing the shuffle without hesitation. at the end of the shuffle, drop the cards down that you picked up with your thumb and middle finger. those cards should now be on top. If you picked up cards from the first packet drawn, then the top card should now be the same card.

Controlling a card with the Hindu shuffle: Begin the Hindu shuffle. Draw off about 3 packets or so. Then have your spectator place his/her card on top of those. Then continue the shuffle, except, with your thumb and middle finger, pick up a packet from the cards in your left hand (The top card of this packet should be their card). when you are done with the shuffle naturally drop that packet on top. It should appear that that is that last packet. Pretty deceptive move:)

Retaining the bottom card with the Hindu shuffle: at the beginning of the shuffle hold the bottom card with your index finger. When you pull of the first packet, slip the bottom card on it. simple:)

 

Hindu control - Have the card placed on top of some card stock, catch a break underneath it with the pinkie. Drop the remaining card stock on top. Hindu shuffle from the break (where spectator's card is the bottom card of the shuffled stock) Shuffle until the spectator's card is on top.

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